Umm Ar-Rasas is an ancient archaeological site located in central Jordan, about 30 km southeast of Madaba. Originally a Roman military camp, it later became a significant Christian pilgrimage site during the Byzantine period. The site is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its exceptional historical and cultural value.
If you’re traveling through Jordan and want to explore more than just Petra and Wadi Rum, add Umm Ar-Rasas to your itinerary. It’s a peaceful, uncrowded site rich in culture, history, and spiritual heritage.
Umm Ar-Rasas is a treasure trove for history lovers, archaeology enthusiasts, and travelers seeking lesser-known destinations.
1. UNESCO World Heritage Status
Designated in 2004, Umm Ar-Rasas is recognized for its unique combination of Roman, Byzantine, and early Islamic architecture.
2. Stunning Mosaics
The Church of St. Stephen houses one of the most beautiful mosaic floors in the Middle East. It depicts 15 cities of the Holy Land in intricate detail.
3. Ancient Churches
The site includes the ruins of more than 16 churches, many dating back to the 5th to 8th centuries, reflecting the area’s rich Christian heritage.
4. Stylite Tower
A rare feature in the region, this isolated stone tower is believed to have been used by Christian ascetics (stylites) who lived atop pillars for spiritual purposes.
The site is easily accessible from Madaba (30 minutes by car) and about 1.5 hours from Amman. Most visitors combine it with a day trip to Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea.
8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (subject to seasonal change)
Free with Jordan Pass
Wear comfortable shoes — the terrain is rocky.
Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat — it gets hot during the day.
Nestled in the arid plains of central Jordan, Umm ar-Rasas (also spelled Umm er-Rasas) is one of the country’s most underappreciated archaeological gems. Just 30 kilometers southeast of Madaba and a 90-minute drive from Amman, this remarkable site is often overshadowed by Petra, Jerash, and Wadi Rum. Yet, for those who venture off the beaten path, Umm ar-Rasas offers an unforgettable journey through Roman, Byzantine, and early Islamic history.
Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, Umm ar-Rasas is best known for its spectacular Byzantine mosaics, ancient churches, Roman military camp remains, and a mysterious stylite tower — all telling the story of a region rich in religious, cultural, and architectural heritage.
Originally known as Kastron Mefa’a in Roman times, Umm ar-Rasas was established as a military outpost in the 3rd century CE. Its strategic location on the edge of the desert made it a key point along several ancient trade and pilgrimage routes.
During the Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE), the site transitioned into a Christian center. Numerous churches and monasteries were constructed, reflecting the spread and entrenchment of Christianity across Jordan and the wider Levant. The site continued to be inhabited during the early Islamic period, showcasing a remarkable continuity and coexistence of cultures.
Today, Umm ar-Rasas remains a testament to this diverse and layered history.
The UNESCO designation of Umm ar-Rasas is based on its:
Outstanding mosaic art
Religious significance in early Christianity
Multicultural architectural layers
Stylite tower (a rare example of an ascetic pillar)
These features highlight the site’s role as a cultural crossroads between the Greco-Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic worlds.
The Church of Saint Stephen is the most significant and visually impressive structure at Umm ar-Rasas. Built in 785 CE, long after the Islamic conquest of the region, this church is home to one of the largest and best-preserved floor mosaics in the Middle East.
Dimensions: Approximately 20 meters long.
Date: 8th century CE.
Imagery: The mosaic includes detailed representations of 15 major cities of the Holy Land and the Nile Delta, including Jerusalem, Nablus, Gaza, Ashkelon, Caesarea, and Alexandria.
Artistic Value: The intricacy and vibrant color of the mosaics make them a rare masterpiece of Byzantine art.
The mosaic is framed with Greek inscriptions and adorned with animals, trees, and architectural depictions — showcasing both artistic excellence and religious symbolism.
In addition to the Church of Saint Stephen, archaeologists have uncovered at least 15 other churches scattered throughout Umm ar-Rasas. While not all are fully excavated, they illustrate the area’s role as a major religious center during the Byzantine period.
Church of the Lions
Church of Bishop Sergius
Church of the River
Each church features its own unique layout, mosaic style, and inscriptions, offering insights into the evolution of church architecture in the region.
One of the most intriguing features of Umm ar-Rasas is the stylite tower located outside the main archaeological area. This 15-meter high stone tower is believed to have been used by Christian ascetics who practiced “stylitism” — living atop pillars in extreme isolation as a form of devotion.
There are no doors or stairways visible on the tower, and its platform at the top was likely accessed by a ladder or rope. Stylite towers are extremely rare, especially in the Middle East, making this a unique and mysterious monument.
Despite its Christian foundation, Umm ar-Rasas shows signs of continuity into the early Islamic period. The Church of Saint Stephen was constructed decades after Islam became dominant in the region, suggesting religious tolerance or coexistence at the time.
Archaeological layers also reveal Islamic pottery and structures, illustrating that Umm ar-Rasas remained occupied and relevant for centuries after the Byzantine era.
In a country famous for iconic attractions like Petra and the Dead Sea, Umm ar-Rasas stands out as a quiet, contemplative site full of spiritual, artistic, and historical significance. For travelers looking to explore Jordan beyond the tourist trail, this site offers:
Authenticity – often uncrowded and peaceful
Cultural richness – layers of Roman, Christian, and Islamic history
Artistic beauty – some of the finest mosaics in the region
Archaeological intrigue – much of the site remains unexplored
Umm ar-Rasas is not just another ruin in the desert. It’s a living chronicle of civilizations, faiths, and artistic expression that shaped Jordan and the wider Middle East. From its breathtaking mosaics and churches to its mysterious stylite tower, Umm ar-Rasas is a site that captures the imagination and deserves a place on every history lover’s itinerary.
If you’re visiting Jordan and want to dig deeper into its heritage, don’t miss Umm ar-Rasas — a quiet yet powerful echo from the past.
